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The Wazwan | Kashmir is a crossroads and remains one of the great conflicted narratives of modern India. A land given, taken and fought over a thousand times as if in a story. When Timur (Tamerlane) invaded India in the fifteenth century from Persia, he came with an army of 1700 craftsmen. Woodcarvers, weavers, architects, calligraphers and cooks from Samarkand in Central Asia all settled in the lush Valley. The descendants of these cooks, known as Wazas, are the chefs of the Kashmiri feast, the Wazwan. Literally a cook-shop.

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A Muslim butcher ritually slaughters, skins and butchers a sheep in preparation for a wazwan feast, Srinagar
A Waza (or cook in the Wazwan tradition) pounds lamb as he prepares a dish of Ghustaba
Pounded lamb for a dish of Ghustaba. Srinagar
Gulam Ahmed, a Waza in the Wazwan tradition chops meat in preparation for a Wazwan feast. Srinagar
Detail of a cleaver on a chopping block in the kitchens at a Wazwan feast, Srinagar
Wazas prepare kebabs in preparation for a Wazwan feast, Srinagar
Wazas prepare kebabs in preparation for a Wazwan feast,  Srinagar
Wazas cooking on a traditional range at a Kashmiri wedding feast. Srinagar
Tabakh Maaz - lambs ribs - cooking in a pan at a Wazwan feast. Srinagar
Mohammed Ayub, rests between cooking and serving food at Wazwan wedding feast. Srinagar
A Waza, a traditional Kashmiri cook, chops ingredients whilst his exhausted companion sleeps after cooking all night. Srinagar
Khan Mohammed Sharief Waza, a traditional Kashmiri chef (centre) cooks at a Wazwan feast. Srinagar
Male guests at a wedding party are served and eat a traditional Wazwan meal seated in groups of four around a communal plate ...
Male guests at a wedding party
A Waza drinks tea between cooking and serving food at Wazwan feast. Srinagar